Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working: Causes, Element Test, and Fixes

The bake setting heats normally, but the top element stays dark and dinner will not brown. A Whirlpool oven broiler not working can have an open element, a damaged terminal, or a relay fault. A working bake cycle narrows the search without proving which part failed.

Where should the check begin? The element’s condition and its isolated resistance give more useful evidence than the glow pattern alone. Those checks come before choosing a replacement.

Follow the symptom comparisons and power-off test below, then review the matching replacement steps. You’ll also learn when the wiring or control needs further diagnosis and when to call a technician.

Quick Facts

Use these details to plan the work:

• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
• Time: 30 to 60 minutes
• Tools: Multimeter, 1/4 inch nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, flashlight, work gloves
• Part cost: $35 to $220
• Skill level: Beginner for element, intermediate for board

Why Is My Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working?

The broil element may be open, its connection may be damaged, or the control may not supply it. The way the element behaves helps narrow the next check.

Compare the symptom with the possible cause.

The broil element sits near the top of the oven cavity. A blister, crack, or burned-through area is a strong clue, but an element can also fail without obvious surface damage. An isolated resistance test is more useful than appearance alone.

What Causes a Whirlpool Range Broil Element to Stop Heating?

Repeated heating can damage the element, while a loose connection can overheat its terminal. A failed relay, temperature-sensing problem, or interlock fault can also prevent broiling.

Work through these possible causes in order.

• Element burnout: A broken internal path prevents heating.
• Scorched terminal: A damaged spade connection interrupts power.
• Broil relay: The control’s switch may fail to supply the element.
• Temperature sensor: An incorrect reading can affect heat control.
• Door or clean-mode interlock: The control may prevent the requested mode.

A relay is an electrical switch on the control board. The sensor is a separate part that reports temperature. Keep those jobs distinct when describing the problem or comparing a repair quote.

Why Does the Whirlpool Oven Bake Work but Broil Does Not?

The bake and broil elements have separate heat paths and control relays. Normal bake heating therefore directs attention toward the broil element, its terminal, and its relay.

Use the pattern as a guide, rather than a complete electrical test.

• A failed broil element can coexist with a working bake element.
• A failed broil relay can leave other oven functions working.
• A damaged wire can interrupt only the broil path.
• Normal bake heat makes some shared supply faults less likely, but does not prove every supply connection is sound.

Does the oven preheat slowly as well? Some cooking cycles use both heat sources, so a broil fault can affect more than the Broil setting. Record all the changes before replacing a board.

How to Test the Whirlpool Oven Broil Element With a Multimeter

Follow these steps to test the element with power disconnected.

Check the Isolated Broil Element

1. Unplug the range or switch off its breaker and let the oven cool.
2. Remove the element’s mounting screws to reach its connections, or use rear access where the model requires it.
3. Pull it forward carefully and disconnect the leads.
4. Set the meter to resistance and measure across the element terminals.
5. Compare the reading with the resistance specified for the exact model and element.
6. Check each terminal against the metal sheath or ground for an unwanted connection.

An OL reading means there is no complete path through the isolated element. A terminal-to-sheath connection indicates a possible ground fault. Neither result should be checked with power on.

For example, Whirlpool model WFE515S0JW4 uses technical sheet W11401736. That sheet lists 10 to 40 ohms nominal for the broil circuit between P5-1 and P5-4, under its stated conditions. Other models can use different elements and limits. Check the installed element against its own service data before rejecting a finite reading.

How to Replace the Broil Element on a Whirlpool Oven Step by Step

Follow these steps to replace a confirmed failed element on the matching electric-oven layout.

Phase 1: Cut Power and Remove the Oven Racks

1. Unplug the range or turn off the breaker.
2. Open the door and remove the racks.
3. Locate the broil element at the top of the cavity.

Phase 2: Unscrew the Element and Disconnect the Leads

1. Remove the screws at the front and rear brackets.
2. Pull the element forward carefully and disconnect its wires.

Phase 3: Connect and Mount the New Element, Then Test Broil

1. Position the new element with its mounting holes aligned.
2. Connect its terminal wires.
3. Slide it into position.
4. Refit the front and rear bracket screws.
5. Retrieve any wire that slipped inside through the rear cover, reconnect it, and refit that cover.
6. Reinstall the racks and any removed door parts. If the range was moved, engage its anti-tip bracket before restoring use.
7. Restore power and test Broil.

Keep power disconnected if a wire slips into the oven wall. Do not restore power until every wire, bracket, and cover is back in place. Burnt connectors need repair as well; a new element cannot make a damaged terminal sound.

Should You Replace the Element or the Control Board?

When you find a Whirlpool oven broiler not working, replace the element only after its isolated test proves failure. Consider the control only after the element and wiring pass and the expected broil supply is absent.

Use these costs to compare the choices.

• Broil element: About $35 to $90 for a confirmed element fault.
• Control board: About $120 to $220 when diagnosis supports a failed broil relay.
• Wiring or terminal: Needs repair when the connection is scorched or damaged.
• Older oven: Compare the full quote with replacement when it is over twelve years old.

Checking for 240 volts at the broil leads is live electrical work. Leave that measurement to a technician if you lack training. A sound element without the expected supply does not automatically prove the board is bad, since wiring faults can interrupt the same path.

A Whirlpool range broiler not working needs the exact model’s element or board. Similar oven cavities can use different mounting shapes, wattages, and connectors.

FAQ

When Should You Call a Technician for a Whirlpool Oven Broiler Problem?

Call for burnt terminals, damaged wiring, or live voltage checks. A good element that still will not heat also needs further diagnosis before another part is ordered.

Is ‘Grill’ the Same as ‘Broil’ on a Whirlpool Oven?

In UK and Australian use, “grill” can mean the top-heat cooking function called broil in US English. A search for “Whirlpool oven grill not working” may describe that same top-element complaint.

Can the Broiler Work in Only One Mode?

Different modes can use the upper element in different ways. A mode-specific fault may involve the control or its conditions, rather than proving the element works correctly in every cycle.

Getting the Broiler Glowing Red Again

A Whirlpool oven broiler not working in the top-heat mode needs a model-specific element check before replacement. Confirm the fault, check the terminal, and reserve the board decision for a complete electrical diagnosis.

Find the broil element for your Whirlpool oven model after testing confirms it has failed, so the top of the next meal browns normally again.