Is your oven broiler refusing to heat up? Before you give up on that perfect roast or crispy finish, let’s go through some troubleshooting steps to get it working again.
Several issues could be preventing your Frigidaire oven from heating in broil mode. The problem might stem from a faulty oven sensor, a malfunctioning main control board, a broken heating element, or, in rarer cases, a damaged wiring harness.
With a few tools and some careful checks, you may be able to identify the issue and fix it yourself.
Tools You’ll Need
- Multimeter
- 1/4-inch nut driver
Safety First
Before getting started, take the necessary precautions to avoid injury or damage to your appliance:
- Always unplug the oven or switch off the circuit breaker before working on it to prevent electric shock.
- If the oven has been recently used, give it time to cool before handling any parts.
- Take your time to prevent accidents and injuries. Precision matters.
- Work in a well-lit space so you can clearly see the appliance components.
- Remove clutter and keep children and pets away while working.
- Never work with wet hands, and make sure the work area is completely dry.
- Look up any specific safety or installation instructions related to your appliance model.
- Excessive force can cause damage or injury.
- Insulated gloves help prevent cuts from sharp metal parts, and safety glasses or a dust mask may be useful when dealing with debris.
- Avoid touching exposed wires or terminals. If necessary, use a non-conductive tool or insulating gloves.
- If you’re not experienced with electrical testing, avoid live voltage tests to prevent short circuits.
Also Read: Oven Cleaning Hacks That Really Work
How to Troubleshoot a Frigidaire Oven Broiler That Won’t Heat
Follow these steps to diagnose and fix the issue with your Frigidaire oven broiler not heating properly.
Step 1. Remove the Covers
- Turn off the range and unplug it from the power outlet.
- Remove the terminal block cover and check for any bare wires touching the metal.
- Remove the back oven and back console covers by removing the 1/4-inch screws along the sides.
- Set the covers aside.
Step 2. Test Voltage at the Terminal Block
LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: The range must be plugged in and powered on for this test. Use caution to avoid electric shock.
- Plug in the range and turn it on.
- Set the multimeter to Volts AC (VAC), represented by a “V” with a squiggly line.
- Place one-meter probe on the black wire post and the other on the red wire post.
- Check for a reading of 240 volts AC.
- If there are 240 volts, proceed to Step 3.
- If there is no 240 volts, unplug the range and test the power cord for continuity.
Step 3. Test at the Main Control
LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: The range must be plugged in and powered on for this test. Use caution to avoid electric shock.
- Plug in the range and turn it on.
- Set the multimeter to Volts AC (VAC).
- Place one probe on the L1 terminal and the other on the L2 IN terminal.
- Check for a reading of 240 volts AC.
- Start a broil cycle in the oven.
- Place one probe on the BRL (broil) terminal and the other on the L2 OUT terminal.
- Check for a reading of 240 volts AC.
- If there are 240 volts, proceed to Step 4.
- If there is no voltage at L1 to L2 IN, but the cooktop is working, the wire harness has failed.
- If there is no voltage from L2 OUT to BRL, proceed to Step 6 to test the oven sensor.
Step 4. Test the Broil Element
LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: The range must be plugged in and powered on for this test. Use caution to avoid electric shock.
- Plug in the range and turn it on.
- Set the multimeter to Volts AC (VAC).
- Locate the broil element terminals at the top of the back of the oven.
- Place one probe on each terminal and check the meter reading.
- If there are 240 volts but the element does not heat, replace the broil element.
- If there is no voltage but the control board has voltage, the wire harness is faulty. Proceed to Step 5.
Alternative Test – Resistance Test for Broil Element
- Turn off and unplug the range.
- Access the broil element terminals.
- Set the multimeter to ohms (Ω).
- Place one probe on each terminal.
- Check for a reading of around 19 ohms.
- If resistance is much lower, replace the broil element.
Step 5. Test the Wire Harness
- Inspect the wires for any visible damage.
- If any wires are damaged, replace the wire harness.
- If the wires appear intact, test for continuity.
- Turn off and unplug the range.
- Set the multimeter to the continuity setting.
- Place one probe on the BRL terminal at the main control and the other on the same wire at the broil element.
- Repeat this process for the wire at L2 OUT to the same wire end on the broil element.
- If there is no continuity, replace the wire harness.
Step 6. Test the Oven Sensor
- Turn off and unplug the range.
- Open the oven and locate the oven sensor in the right-hand corner.
- Disconnect the plastic connector from the sensor.
- Set the multimeter to ohms (Ω).
- Place one probe on each sensor terminal.
- Check for a resistance reading between 1080 and 1100 ohms at room temperature.
- If the reading is outside this range, replace the oven sensor.
- If the sensor is within range, the main control board is likely faulty.
Also Read: Gas Oven Broiler Won’t Heat: Top 5 Reasons and Fixes
Key Takeaways
That broiler might not be as broken as it seems. With some careful checks, you might avoid an expensive repair. A faulty heating element, a problem with the control board, or a wiring issue could be behind it. The good news? Many of these fixes don’t require expert help.
If you’ve gone through the steps and the problem remains, a professional might be the best option. But if you found the issue and got it working, that’s one less kitchen headache. Either way, now you know what’s happening behind that oven door.