Does your front-load washer bang, shake, or walk across the floor during the spin cycle? Worn shock absorbers are a common cause. They cushion the tub, and once they wear out, the whole machine rattles.
Replacing the front-load washer shock absorber (part W11415987) takes a bit of disassembly, but it is doable at home with basic tools. This guide walks you through both the front and rear shocks.
In this guide you’ll learn:
- The signs your shock absorbers are worn
- The tools you need first
- Simple safety steps
- How to replace the front and rear shock absorbers
When to Replace the Shock Absorbers
Ever wonder why your washer suddenly got so loud? Watch for these signs:
- Loud banging or knocking as the tub shakes during the spin.
- The washer moves or walks across the floor.
- Excess vibration even with a balanced load.
If you see these, worn shocks are a likely cause and worth replacing.
What You’ll Need
- A replacement shock absorber (part W11415987). Confirm it fits your model first.
- A 1/4-inch nut driver
- A 5/16-inch nut driver
- A Torx 20 screwdriver
- A flat-blade screwdriver and a small flat-blade screwdriver
Note: Tools can vary by model. Check your owner’s manual for the exact fasteners on your machine.
Safety First
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet before you start.
- Turn off the water supply at the valves behind the washer.
- Give the machine time to cool if it was just used, and keep the area clear.
How to Replace the Front Shock Absorber
Take your time with this one, since it involves opening the cabinet. Work through the steps in order.
- Remove the top. Use the 1/4-inch nut driver to take out the three screws on the back, then push the top back and lift it off.
- Detach the control panel. Pull out the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing the release tab. Remove the two Torx 20 screws beneath it, lift the panel to free the locking tabs, unplug the wiring, remove the retainer clip, and set the panel aside.
- Remove the door seal. Open the door and take out the Torx screw above the latch. Push in and slide off the latch. Pry off the retaining spring around the seal with a flat-blade screwdriver and pull back the front lip of the seal.
- Tilt the washer back and rest the front edge on a 2×4 block to hold it.
- Remove the front panel to expose the tub and shock absorbers.
- Remove the old shock absorber from its mounting points.
- Install the new shock absorber, securing it at both ends.
- Reassemble in reverse: front panel, door seal and latch, control panel and wiring, then the top.
Pro Tip: Snap a photo before unplugging the control wiring. It makes reconnecting everything quick and worry-free.
Replacing the Rear Shock Absorbers
The rear shocks are easier to reach. Remove the rear access panel, take out the brace that crosses the back, swap the rear shock absorbers, then reinstall the brace and access panel.
When to Look a Little Deeper
If the noise continues after new shocks, the issue may be a worn belt or an unbalanced setup. Our guide on a worn washer drive belt covers the belt side, and if water behavior seems off, here is how to prevent your washing machine from overfilling. For fill problems specifically, see why your washing machine is not filling with water.
Vibration has other causes too. If the shaking persists, you can fix a loud washer vibration problem, and if a front-load washer is rough on laundry, here is why a front-load washer can damage clothes and how to fix it.
Wrapping Up
New shock absorbers can turn a banging, walking washer back into a quiet one. Here’s the short version:
- Unplug the washer and shut off the water.
- For the front shock, remove the top, control panel, door seal, and front panel.
- Swap the shock absorber and reassemble in reverse.
- For the rear shocks, work through the rear access panel.
It is a bigger job, but you handled it and saved a service call. Well done.